The Elements of Terroir

Nicholas Joly and Peter Weltman (Me), originally uploaded by weltz8.

One look at Nicholas Joly’s business card and it is easy to see he is unlike any other vigneron in the world—who else has the job title Natures assistant. Given his devotion to biodynamic viticulture, it is understood why his self-imposed occupation is perfectly fitting. The specific details about biodynamics are found in Mr. Joly’s books, Wine from Sky to Earth, and Biodynamic Wine Demystified, in which he admits that he fell into this style of agriculture by accident. Make no mistake, he is committed to spreading his organic-meets-metaphysical methods by promoting vital life forces—Joly wants a drinker to feel the wine’s energy. The vintners who share his passion put their wines on display at the 5th Annual La renaissance des Appellations (Return to Terroir) tasting in New York City.

Joly’s famed estate is called Le Coulée de Serrant in Savenniéres, Maine-et-Loire, France. It sits on hallowed ground that was first planted by Cistercian Monks over 800 years ago. He was not always growing under the guiding biodynamic principles of the sun and stars but converted his entire estate to biodynamics by 1984. Previously, Joly used herbicides and pesticides to control his vineyards. However, his desire to change started after he noticed that nature began to vanish from his vineyards, leaving the soil dusty, dead, and the man yearning for what he lost.

At the conference, Virginie Joly, Nicholas’ daughter, was at the table pouring the three cuvées that they produce. True to style, the wines were not on ice, as Joly is a believer in serving his wines at around 14-15 degrees Celsius and if possible, decanted and left open for 12 to 24 hours. Let’s be reminded that we are talking about the chenin blanc grape. How could I know what to expect from the wines when Joly himself takes exactly what nature offers? The grapes are picked in a series of vineyard passes, as they only take the ripest bunches. This leads to different amounts of hang time, the potential of botrytis, and some raisining on the vine. Sometimes there is malolactic fermentation, other times not. He crafts wines with vintage character and is working towards creating not only “a good wine but also a true wine.”

The 2006 Coulée de Serrant, Savenniéres AOC, France, “Vieux Clos,” had an intensely spicy nose that followed through on the palate and tasted of mustard. There was also a distinct mineral presence that was carried by the highly acidic juice and rounded with a wild flower honey component. I found this wine to be coarse and obnoxious like an adorable screaming child— a descriptor that Joly himself would quite enjoy. Next was the 2005 Coulée de Serrant, Savienniéres Roche aux Moines AOC, France “Clos de la Bergerie” which traded the earth of the previous wine for riper fruit with a yeasty and sour apple cider flair, followed by an intense nuttiness on the back end of the palate. Joly credits this to harvesting later which causes the grapes’ forces to turn inwards and ultimately express the power of the seeds— welcome to the Joly school of thought. Finally, I sampled the coveted 2006 Savenniéres Coulée de Serrant AOC, Savenniéres, France “Clos de la Coulée de Serrant.” The wine had not been opened long but there were hints of white peach, oregano and heavy doses of crushed slate. The palate was firm and oily but quite clean as the acidic chenin blanc is so capable of. Light and aromatic acacia honey was omnipresent and there was refreshing spearmint as well. I would love to see this wine opened for multiple days and taste it through its extraordinary evolution.

There is so much to learn from Nicholas Joly and his crusade to bring wines back to the earth. I would, however, proceed with caution because biodynamics does not ultimately always taste better. The guiding principles are admirable but I found many wines showcasing an “empty terroir.” However, Joly’s fight is noble and he not only fully expresses his land, but he is able to humble wine to a deeper understanding of man’s place on this earth.